So I appreciate tourists have been going to Kefalonia for years, and it’s some time since the late Jill Dando referred to it as somewhere off the well beaten Greek island hopping track. Some would say this is no hidden gem and you're kind of right but It's MY hidden gem.  I have a long list of places I really want to visit written down and Kefalonia didn't feature on this, having foolishly passed off Greece as 'seen one Greek island, seen them all'.  I was originally going to Slovenia on a road trip but it wasn't to be.  Then I was off to Portugal for a safe bet & it hit the quarantine list, so finally Kefalonia really I selected, as one of the only places Easyjet was still flying to that I was allowed to go.  I'm so sorry Kefalonia, had I have known your beauty, I would have always picked you!   


    

A PUZZLE PIECE

Kefalonia or Cephalonia or formerly Keffalina is an oddly shaped puzzle piece floating in the Ionian sea in Western Greece.  Of the seven islands that make up the Ionian region, Kefalonia is the largest, and actually the 6th largest island in Greece, with a surface area of over 780km squared.  It has a population of just 40,000, with much of it's mountainous terrain being uninhabited as well as a large departure of inhabitants post the 1953 earthquake.  The mountains of Kefalonia along with its coves created from its awkward shape make it one simply stunning place to holiday and a puzzle piece of my bucket list I didn't know was missing.

STAY

      

                                                           
So my first recommendation is a true hidden & beautiful gem of a hotel situated on the south west coast of the island; Fzeen Retreat.  Perched between Mount Aenos (the highest point in Kefalonia at 1628m) and the long sandy beach of Lourdas, this boutique hotel is small but mighty.  Its serve all day but sole evening restaurant, Selini combines golden sunsets alongside some of the most delicious food on the island, taking a modern twist on Greek cuisine.  Fzeen is styled simply beautifully, think boho luxe at its finest (I still think we should have brought the lampshade home!).  The name Fzeen derives from a phrase meaning 'a good life in terms of balance & health' & its outdoor gyms and yoga decks are central to this.  I can testify the yoga was taught to a really high standard by the friendly teachers and the outdoor gym was a special place to do a couples workout but equally a single traveller would feel perfectly at ease in this hotel. 

If you're thinking fitness & holiday should never feature in the same sentence, you can take it or leave and simply chill by one of several inviting pools, take a stroll to the beach loungers just a walk away, go get a massage in the spa or head to the very dangerous for the holiday spends boutique.  The wonderful thing about Fzeen is you feel right at home from very the start & that's a testament to the brilliant staff....it is whatever you want it to be and they will do anything for you!  Gaia is the other restaurant at Fzeen and is a daytime stop for fresh salad, mezze, juices or the easily drinkable Gentilini wine from the local vineyard.  In the evening simply retire to Selini which is the heart of the hotel, take a trip to one of the local tavernas or retire to the outdoor cinema and get romantic (or in the case of Mr Abbot Kinney just fall asleep) with a screening of Captain Corelli's Mandolin (don't panic they don't play this every evening).  I loved Fzeen and would recommend staying on the 'Raw' side in their newly renovated wing.  It's simply beautiful and even if you can't stay here don't miss a meal at Selini.

Emelisse Nature Resort

We stayed only one evening at Emelisse Nature Resort but this is again a great choice for staying in Kefalonia .  If I was recommending and had two weeks I would quite possibly do a week in each hotel or with only one as I had, you could easily split your time between them evenly....there is so much to do and see in Kefalonia that 10 days or more though won't feel too much.  Emelisse is a family friendly hotel situated in the north of the island near the beautiful harbour of Fiskardo.  This is a sprawling much larger hotel made up of small clusters of red topped houses linked by a maze of cobbled streets.  You can choose from two gorgeous pools, do yoga, exercise in the fitness centre, hit the outdoor cinema, play tennis, relax in the spa... it has all the facilities you could need.  It also is next to the beautiful Emplisi Beach which is a gorgeous clear watered stony cove typical to this side of the island. The main poolside at Emelisse is buzzy and offers a fabulous vista across the water.  The poolside restaurant, Votsolo is not to be missed for either lunch or dinner as the view here when sun sets is  simply beautiful.       

 

EAT

Every taverna we went to in Kefalonia served really delicious food so we didn't really over think where we were going and you don't need to either as they're all great but below are a few of my favourites. Be sure to try the traditional Kefalonia meat pie, eat plenty of delicious fish & don’t miss the honeyed feta...

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Selini

As per above just go go go to this fabulous place in Lourdas!  Delicious modern Greek food with a stunning view, gorgeous cocktails and perfect Fzeen boho chic surrounding you.

Le Passage

This is a super chic but laid back cocktail bar right in the harbour of Fiskardo. Its cream & blue decor against the backdrop of the harboured boats and blue of the sea makes it the perfect pit stop to cool down before you shop.

Tassia

People say you say Fiskardo, you think Tassia....or at least I read that in The Telegraph.  I actually think it was the owner Tassia Dendrinou that said that but anyway, we liked the bright blue chairs and the harbour location, sitting amongst the boats people watching whilst being served delicious slightly more expensive food due to the fact the owner coined her own restaurant as the place to be and I and many other tourists bought it...ha no but seriously its worth going! 

Irida's

We had lunch here and the most delicious fish to share.  The staff were really friendly and it was in the perfect location on the edge of the harbour of Fiskardo.  They have a gorgeous boutique attached to the restaurant and its full of lots of stunning jewellery.  We got several limited edition bracelets here that didn't even make the website before they sold out. 

The Olive Lounge

The Olive Lounge is in a gorgeous setting up near the castle high above Argostoli.  The views are stunning so try to get here for sunset.  Liana, the owner is the perfect hostess and her food matches her enthusiasm & energy for her restaurant.

Vinaries

We didn't actually end up eating at this restaurant and instead just stopped by when we visited the Fanari Lighthouse.  However the setting overlooking Argostoli Bay was great and I hear good things from fellow travellers so check it out and if you do let me know as it's on my list to eat here on my next visit.

Veremente

Our hotel suggested this when we asked for a local recommendation of somewhere they would eat.  This is a taverna based in Trapezaki and when we got dropped off I have to be honest the place opposite looked like the more modern place to go.  How wrong I was! Veremente was great, we had a gorgeous meat Mezze to share, wonderful service but best of all was the baked feta & honey they are known for.  The honey comes from a particular type of indigenous fir tree only found in Kefalonia....it's delicious.

DO

Rent A Car 

The only real way to explore Kefalonia is by car. Opt for something small as the roads are windy, unmarked and sometimes filled with goats!!

Rent A Boat

One of the best parts of Kefalonia is all of the hidden coves and stunning turquoise water.  Definitely rent a speedboat for at least half a day and get out and discover them.  We did this in the south of the island using Escape Club on Lourdas Beach.  We also really wanted to do it in Fiskardo with Reginna's Rent A Boat but sadly the sea was too choppy that day.......just another excuse to go back!  The Emelisse hotel also organised larger boats to do an entire tour of the island which I think would be fabulous.

Argostoli

This is the capital of Kefalonia and it is nestled around the Koutavos  Lagoon which a feeding ground for resident turtles that you can see if you get up early enough! Running across the bay is the world's largest stone bridge, the De Bosset (Drapano) Bridge which you can walk across into Argostoli.  The capital itself is modern and attractive having been rebuilt almost entirely post the earthquake.  The key places to go are Vallianos Square filled with restaurants and bars, Lithostroto Street lined with shops & The Fanari Lighthouse.  

 

Antisamos Beach

Near to the town of Sami, Antisamos Beach shot to fame when scenes of the movie Captain Corellis' Mandolin were filmed here.  Be sure to stop at the viewpoint on the way down and then make the well worth  trip to the shore.  It's a stunning white pebble beach set between mountains and the water is so breathtakingly clear with every type of blue you can imagine that sits together to make it virtually impossible to capture it's beauty on camera. Grab a drink or lunch at Acron bar and just admire the view or stay here & sunbathe for the day.  If you eat at Acron your lounger is free.

Messalini Lake

We went here before heading on to Antisamos Beach.  This is effectively a cave so my husband really wasn't keen as for some reason every recent holiday we have been on includes a cave trip!  We are definitely not cavers so I am unsure how this has actually happened.  My husband's view is 'seen one stalagmite seen them all' and I kind of agree having looked back at pictures from recent trips they kind of all seem the same.  Anyway, I digress... this one is worth doing.  It's not a long experience, 15 minutes on a little boat in an open air cave with the most amazing turquoise water you will ever see.  My husband's review 'as far as caves go that was a good one.'  Most would think it's amazing! 

Assos

This was without doubt one of the prettiest places I have ever been to.  Postcard picture beautiful, the love affair with Assos begins when you stop at the viewpoint and see the castle and all the beautiful coloured houses and peninsula below.  Wind your way down to the tiny car park, meander through the main square & pull a seat up in a taverna next to the simply stunning cove.  I loved this charming and quaint village with all it's history and Italian and French influences.   

WHEN I RETURN

Kefalonia is a big island and one I know I will return to.  On my list for when I do....

• The gorgeous tiny island of Ithaca just a boat trip away

• Zakynthos & Navagio Beach which is just a ferry or boat ride away but was on the quarantine list when we went 

• Agia Efmia, a small traditional village on the East Coast that although we saw we didn't spend any proper real time in  

CYCLONE IANOS

On the penultimate day of our holiday to Kefalonia, Cycle Ionas, known as a medicane, a rare Mediterranean hurricane hit Greece with Kefalonia, Zakythos and Ithaca amongst the worst hit.  The island was prepared for the onslaught of 100km winds and torrential rain so they made the preparations they could but ultimately there was little they could do but wait to see what happened.  Our return flight was cancelled and we flew back a day later than scheduled but we remained safe and well in our hotel.  The north of the island took the full brunt of the force and sadly the gorgeous village of Assos pictured in this blog was left completely devastated by mud slides, resulting in the road washing away and rumble where just a couple of days ago there had been buildings.  The people of Assos were left without electricity, water, food or shelter and it will take time and money to rebuild.  Volunteers are now helping to fund this.  You can donate here.  The south of the island is now relatively unscathed and Kefalonia will no doubt bounce back stronger than ever.  I look forward to once again visiting this beautiful place.

PACK

The roads are pretty scary, keep luck close by with the Bonne Chance Necklace

 

 

People will be swooning over your trip, keep jealously at bay with the beautiful Flying Eyes Bracelet 

 

 

Match the turquoise sea with the Paradise Mimosa Earrings